Big and Tall Suits: How to Buy One That Actually Fits

The sleeves finally reach your wrists, but the shoulders pull tight. Or the chest buttons fine, but the jacket stops at your hip and you look like you borrowed it. If you're a big or tall man, you've probably had both problems in the same fitting room.

Here's the short answer: buy a big and tall suit by chest size first, then jacket length by height, then check the pant waist that comes with it. The shoulders and chest are the only parts a tailor can't really fix. Get those right off the rack, and almost everything else can be adjusted.

We've been fitting men in Los Angeles since 2009. That's 17 years of watching guys come in with the wrong size because a store only stocked up to a 50. This guide is what we tell them.

How does big and tall suit sizing actually work?

A suit size has three parts. Take a size like 56L/50W:

• 56 is the jacket chest size.
• L is the jacket length: Short, Regular or Long.
• 50W is the pant waist that comes with that jacket.

"Big" means a larger chest. "Tall" means a longer jacket and longer sleeves. Plenty of men need both, which is why a good big and tall run covers every chest size in more than one length.

To find your chest size, measure around the fullest part of your chest, under your arms, with your arms relaxed. For most men, jacket size lands close to that number in inches.

You're far from alone. According to the CDC, the average American man weighs 199 pounds and has a 40.6-inch waist. Big and tall isn't a niche. It's a big share of the men who walk into a suit shop.

Don't guess from your shirt size or your weight. Two men at the same weight can be four jacket sizes apart. One carries it in his chest and shoulders. The other carries it in his stomach.

What size suit am I if I'm 6'4" and 280?

This is the question we hear most. The honest answer: your height picks the length, and your chest picks the number. Weight alone can't tell you either one.

So measure first. Then text us at 866-807-0706 with your height, weight and chest measurement, and we'll tell you where to start.

Check the pant waist that comes with your jacket

On our PL1969 big and tall suit, each jacket ships with a set pant waist:

Jacket size	Pant waist	Drop
38	32W	6"
44	38W	6"
50	44W	6"
56	50W	6"
62	56W	6"
68	62W	6"
70	66W	4"
72	68W	4"

If your real waist is bigger than the waist listed for your jacket size, read the next section before you order.

What is a suit "drop," and why do portly cuts exist?

The drop is the gap between the jacket size and the pant waist. A 56 jacket with a 50 pant has a 6-inch drop.

A 6-inch drop is built for a man whose chest is a lot bigger than his waist. That's a lot of men. It's not every man.

If you carry weight in your middle, your waist may be close to your chest size. Then a 6-inch drop leaves you with two bad choices. Buy the jacket that fits, and the pants won't close. Buy the pants that close, and the jacket hangs off your shoulders like a tent.

That's why portly cuts exist. A portly suit has a smaller drop, so the pant waist runs closer to the jacket size. The jacket is also cut with more room through the stomach, so it buttons without pulling into an X.

You'll see the drop shrink on our own sizing at the top end. At 70 and 72, the PL1969 drops 4 inches instead of 6, because men who wear those sizes usually need more waist.

If your waist is close to your chest size, call or text us before you order. We'll tell you which size gets you a jacket that fits your shoulders and a pant you can close.

Should a big and tall suit jacket cover my seat?

Yes. This is the fit mistake we see the most on tall men.

When a man buys a Regular because the chest fits, the sleeves come up short and the hem stops too high. It makes a tall frame look even taller and the legs look longer than they are. The jacket should cover your seat. Your sleeve should show a little shirt cuff, not a lot of wrist.

Here's the rule: chest and length are two separate choices. If a 56 fits your chest and you're tall, you want a 56L, not a 58R. Going up a size to get length just gives you a jacket that's too wide everywhere.

This is also why stock matters. A lot of stores carry big sizes in Regular only, and only in navy or charcoal. Our PL1969 black suit is cut in Short, Regular and Long all the way from 38 to 72, including sizes like 60L, 66L and 72L that are hard to find on a rack. Our big and tall suits are grouped in one place so you're not scrolling past sizes that stop at 50.

What can a tailor fix on a big and tall suit, and what can't they?

Buy the suit that fits your shoulders and chest. Then let a tailor handle the rest. Here's how it breaks down.

A tailor can usually fix:

• Pant length and the hem.
• Pant waist, taken in or let out a little, depending on how much fabric is in the seam.
• Sleeve length, shortened easily, lengthened only a little.
• Taking in the sides of the jacket if it's loose at the waist.

A tailor can't really fix:

• Shoulders that are too narrow or too wide.
• A jacket that's too short. There's no fabric to add back.
• A chest that pulls when you button it.
• Pants that are far too small in the waist.

One more thing before you book the tailor. Once a suit is altered, you can't return it. Our return policy only takes items back unworn, unaltered and with tags on. So try it on at home first, check the shoulders, sit down in it, reach forward. Then go to the tailor.

What fabric is best for a big guy who runs hot?

Big men tend to run warm, and a wedding or a long workday in the wrong fabric is miserable. A few things to look for:

• Wrinkle resistance. A bigger frame puts more stress on fabric when you sit, drive or hug people. The PL1969, for example, is a wrinkle-resistant poplin, so it comes out of a car ride looking like it went in.
• Lining. A fully lined jacket drapes cleaner over a large frame and slides on and off easily. The PL1969 jacket is fully lined, and the pants are lined to the knee.
• Dark, solid colors. Black, navy and charcoal hide creases and keep your outline clean. Bold patterns get stretched across a big chest.
• Care. Read the label. "Dry clean only" is a real instruction, not a suggestion. The FTC has rules on what care labels must tell you.

I have a wedding in two weeks. What's the fastest way to get a suit that fits?

Deadlines are when big and tall men get stuck, because the local store rarely has your size in stock. Here's the order to do things in:

1. Measure tonight. Chest, waist and height. Write them down.
2. Pick chest size, then length, then check the pant waist using the chart above.
3. Order right away. Orders over $150 ship free.
4. Try it on the day it arrives. Check shoulders, chest and jacket length. Those are the things a tailor can't fix.
5. Book the tailor after the try-on, not before. Hem and sleeves are usually quick jobs.
6. Don't forget the shirt. A suit that fits looks wrong over a shirt that pulls at the buttons. Buy the shirt by neck and sleeve, not by S, M or L.

If the size is wrong, you have 30 days from delivery to request a return, as long as the suit is unworn, unaltered and has its tags. Returns are issued as store credit, not refunds, and you pay return shipping. Email us first to get approval. Full details are in our return policy. Sale items are final.

Frequently asked questions

What size suit am I if I'm 6'4" and 280 pounds?

Weight alone can't tell you. Measure your chest around the fullest part, under your arms, to get your jacket size. Your height picks Short, Regular or Long. Then check that the pant waist paired with that jacket matches your real waist.

What does 56L mean on a suit?

56L means a 56-inch chest jacket in a Long length. The number is the chest size. The letter is the jacket and sleeve length: S for Short, R for Regular, L for Long. On our PL1969 suit, a 56L comes with a 50-inch pant waist.

What is a 6-inch drop on a suit?

The drop is the difference between the jacket size and the pant waist. A 6-inch drop means a 56 jacket comes with a 50 waist pant. On our PL1969 big and tall suit, sizes 38 through 68 have a 6-inch drop. Sizes 70 and 72 have a 4-inch drop.

Can a tailor make a suit jacket longer?

No, not in any real way. A jacket that is too short has no extra fabric in the hem to let down. That's why tall men should pick the right length, Short, Regular or Long, when they buy, and let a tailor handle the sleeves and pant hem.

Can I return a big and tall suit if it doesn't fit?

Yes, within 30 days of delivery, if it is unworn, unaltered and still has its tags. Email info@ferrecciusa.com for approval before sending it back. Approved returns get store credit as an e-gift card that never expires. We don't refund to the original payment method, and sale items are final.

Find your size

You shouldn't have to settle for a jacket that fits in one place and fails in another. Measure your chest, pick your length, check the drop, then shop sizes that go past where most racks stop.

Shop Ferrecci big and tall suits, including the PL1969 black suit in sizes 38 to 72. Not sure of your size? Call us at 213-745-2322 or text 866-807-0706 with your height, weight and chest measurement, and we'll help you pick a size before you order.

Average U.S. body measurements: CDC National Center for Health Statistics.